Folding Bike Blog

Custom Montague Folding Bikes

With full size wheels and standard components, Montague bikes not only deliver the best ride quality and performance of any folding bike on the market, they also allow for complete customization. Montague riders from all over the world express themselves through their bikes with aftermarket parts, colorful accessories, and even complete builds from our individual framesets.

Here are some of our favorite custom folding bikes.

Velo Orange components on Boston - Beagle Bicycle Co

Single speed Boston by Beagle Bicycle Co., Burlington, ON

tiko-mulya-boston-8-editBoston 8 by Tiko Mulya

Henry Lam Chi Hang Customized Fit

FIT by Henry Lam Chi Hang, Hong Kong

Fit gravel bike - BEagle Bicycle

FIT gravel racer by Beagle Bicycle Co., Burlington, ON


Crosstown by Mark Chiu

Ron J ReyesParatrooper Pro by Ron Reyes, San Francisco


Custom Paratrooper Pro for Thai Police Patrol

327088_433121716755552_1775451087_oParatrooper by Kei Kei Thx, Hong Kong

Paratrooper Roger Cave

Paratrooper by Roger Cave, Australia


X70 by Thana Setchaiyan


X70 touring rig by Alessandro Zeggio, Italy


FIT by 林志成‎, Taiwan

FIT-gravel-4x3FIT gravel bike, Boston MA


Disc brake Crosstown by Samuele Polentes Della Vega


Have you customized your Montague folding bike? Share it with the Montague community on our Facebook page at



  1. Robert De Palma
    Posted April 9, 2015 at 12:04 pm | Permalink

    Why dont you make a FATBIKE version of THE PARATROOPER? JUST DO IT!!!!!

  2. brian lindsay
    Posted April 9, 2015 at 5:07 pm | Permalink

    how about a touring bike, complete with racks.

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Brothers Touring: Mexico on Montague Bikes

After the last leg of their journey through the southwest of the US, Alex and Gregory continued their bike tour into Mexico. They’ve been touring the world on Montague bikes. What follows is their own account of their experience in Mexico.

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It was a strange border crossing at Nogales. The US customs office didn’t check our passport but asked a lot of questions and the Mexican customs office isn’t for another 20km after the first town. We quickly understood that life won’t be easy without being able to speak Spanish but we have been studying it for the last 3 months on our bicycles.

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In Hermosillo a local newspaper wanted to interview us. Even if we can speak a bit of Spanish, they should have sent a journalist that could speak just a little English…

journalist near border

We were told that parts of Mexico could be dangerous, but as always we are naturally curious and must see the country for ourselves. For once we are quite happy about our almost homeless look as we might avoid some trouble that way! Who would want to rob us, seriously? We are just afraid about our Montague bikes which are very nice looking.

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The roads from Nogales to Ciudad Obregon are in poor condition and quite narrow. Fortunately we are used to it and know we are better off to cycle in the middle of the road when necessary.

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The landscapes in this area are not much to look at. The US deserts had a certain beauty to them with many rock formations and colors, but so far the Mexican deserts are disappointing. When we are able to ride near the coastline, the ocean always makes for a great view.

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Wild camping is quite difficult as well. We don’t dare camp in the middle of the villages here yet, so we hide our orange flashy tents for now. Climbing into fields over barbwires is not always easy with a 60kg bicycle. Sometimes, we have the surprise of a giant black snake around the campground or the evening visit of a scorpion. We’re really making friends with nature!


We’ve broken a flat tire record these last two weeks as we’ve averaged 1 or 2 per day! Even with Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires we’ve gotten more flats during this period than the rest of the trip.


We eventually reach Mazatlan after 15 days where we’ll rest for a while. We don’t know what to think about Mexico for now. We are absolutely not afraid by the dangers everybody promised us, but the military has a strong presence everywhere; a symbol of an ending war with the mafias which has never really concerned the tourists. We more and more break the language barrier with the locals who have been quite welcoming. We expect a lot more fun from this country.

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Brake Pad Replacement: Road Caliper

Replacing your brake pads is one of the most common bike maintenance tasks, right up there with fixing a flat. It’s a simple procedure, but if you’ve never worked on your brakes before it can be intimidating. The following is a step by step tutorial on changing the brake pads in a standard dual pivot caliper brake. The process isn’t much different for v-brakes or cantilever brakes which also use rubber pads to contact the rim.


Usually brake pads have grooves cut into the braking surface. Once they’re worn down past the grooves, it’s time to replace them.


Start by loosening the brake cable and opening the caliper. This will allow room to slide the pads in and out between the brake arm and the rim. Most calipers have a quick release lever which opens them up wide enough to work (the silver lever in the photo above). You can also loosen the pinch bolt holding the brake cable to the caliper. This will allow the brake arms to open to their maximum width.


Each brake pad will have a nut or short bolt holding it onto the brake arm. In this case, a 10mm socket is needed to loosen them. Once the nut is off, the pad will easily slide out of the caliper.


Above is the old worn out pad (top) and the brand new bad (bottom). Notice the grooves visible in the new pad are completely gone in the old pad, which indicates how much material has worn away. You can also see debris embedded in the old pad, which was likely picked up from the road. This can damage your rim when braking.


While you have the brake pads off, it’s a good opportunity to clean the calipers thoroughly. Put a drop of lubricant on the joints and moving parts of the caliper as well. Just don’t get any oil on the rim or new pads, as it can reduce braking power. You should wipe down the rim with a clean rag though, and make sure it’s clear of any debris or damage.


The new pads are likely directional, and should indicate which side points forward. These Jagwire pads have a very clear left and right marking as well as a large “Forward” and arrow. Some pads may just have a small arrow, so take a close look.


Remove the bolt or nut from the post of the new pad, and slide it into place. Hold the pad parallel with the rim while you tighten it up. It’s also important to be sure it’s centered vertically on the rim, so the entire pad contacts the braking surface. The slotted brake arms allow the pad to freely slide up and down.


Once both pads are on, squeeze the brake arms together, make sure the brake cable is pulled taught through the housing, and re-tighten the pinch bolt to hold the brake closed.


You want the pads to be as close to the rim as possible without rubbing in order to attain fast response and maximum stopping power when the brake lever is pulled. Fine adjustments can be made with the barrel adjusters where the cable housing enters both the brake caliper and the lever. Turning them counterclockwise will put more tension on the cable and move the pads closer. Turning clockwise will lessen tension and move the pads away from the rim.

Repeat the process with your rear brakes, and take a moment to make sure everything is properly tightened before riding. Test the brakes out while riding at a slow speed first to make sure they’re working properly. If you have any doubts about your work, bring your bike to a professional bike mechanic. Happy riding (and braking)!

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